August 22, 2018

Diving in Cuba

Text and photos by Jamie Pollack, Shark Angels unless otherwise indicated

Cuba conjures up all kinds of things like salsa dancing, rum, cigars and old cars but more importantly beautiful pristine fish and shark-laden reefs. I had the opportunity to dive La Jardines De la Reina (Gardens of the Queens) a chain of 250 virgin coral islands found in the southern part of Cuba this past June and it did not disappoint. La Jardines de la Reina was recently declared a National Park. Access is restricted and limited. Commercial fishing has been banned from all but the outermost edges of the Park. And in 2016, Mission Blue and Dr. Sylvia Earle, SCUBAPRO’S Deep Elite Ambassador, named it a Hope Spot

Cuba Cars

We went as part of an educational group and had two presentations on the biological reef system that we were going to be diving in from Victor, Cuban conservation biologist.

 

We departed from New York City into Miami and then hopped on another flight directly into Santa Clara airport, we then had to take a four-hour bus ride to the boat where we would be diving for one week. The following morning we motored for another five hours to the Gardens of the Queens.

Our liveaboard was the Avalon II and comfortably held our 14 divers. The boat has 10 rooms each with two beds and a private bath. Sundeck with Jacuzzi on top plus a fun water slide off the side of the boat.

Cuba Dive Sites

Our diving would take place off two skiffs stationed on either side of the boat. We dove 4 times per day included was two night dives. The dives were about one hour long.

The first day of diving was OK with lots of large thriving corals, schooling fish and warm water. However as we motored further out to sea, the diving dramatically increased.  We dove with bigger animals and experienced more interesting topography.

Schools of tarpon could be found in overhangs and under ledges making for some really dramatic pictures.

Diving with Tarpon

 Although not every site had vis of 80+ and crystal clear, the marine life was pretty amazing. Schools of tarpon, yellow snappers, barracuda, lobsters walking around during the day and free-swimming eels greeted us quite frequently. There was always something to look at.

Crab and Eel

Since spearfishing is not allowed, these groupers are not afraid of divers and it was not uncommon to have huge groupers accompany us on almost every dive.  They make excellent photographic subjects- and of course grouper cleaning stations were fun to see. It's like a dentist's office for fish!

Cuba Grouper

But if anyone really knows me, I was really here to see the sharks. And sharks we saw! We were greeted by silky and Caribbean reef sharks on most every dive. They liked to hang out right underneath the boat so I didn't mind doing these safety stops!

Diving with sharks

Lots of beautiful sharks could be seen on all of these dives. The variety of the species we saw was immense. Diving with sharks is always a beautiful and exhilirating experience.

Sharks

The water temp was nice and warm at about 83 degrees. I was comfortable in my Everflex 3mm with hood and vest. I do get cold and like to keep the hair out of my face while shooting so this is my preferred diving ensemble. I wore my Go Fins with socks, which I really like to get me through any diving situation. They’re lightweight and small with enough power for any situation. Hydros Pro BCD with G2 and Luna dive computers (I always dive with two computers especially while traveling!) Plus my favorite Spectra mini dive mask.

I highly recommend diving the reefs in Cuba if you get the opportunity. Lots to see and explore both in the water and on the island!

On the last day we visited the city of Santa Clara before heading out to catch our flight and were permitted to walk around for about ½ hour. I found it quite interesting seeing the culture and environment of this beautiful place.